08 February, 2008

2007 Xizihao "Daxueshan" Maocha

New (Chinese) Year, new hangover. We fire up the kettle and let pu'er work its restorative magic.


This is a tea from Houde, with many thanks to TA for kindly providing the sample. Ever the Pinyin pedant, I note that the packet labelled this as "Da Shui Shan" (Big Water Mountain).

It has become popular to criticise Xizihao. Though I am keen to treat each sample with an unbiased hand, I can understand why such criticism exists. Xizihao is turning into the Calvin Klein of tea. The public wants a quality brand in which they can trust, and, several years ago, Xizihao was satisfactory.

It is my opinion that the popularity of this brand has caused it to bow to market forces, resulting in teas like this Daxueshan [Big Snow Mountain] maocha. The price increases year by year, the product names become more exaggerated (we recently had a Tea Emperor, rather than a "Tea King", and a Desolate Forest, rather than a "Wild Tree"), product descriptions become more stretched and loaded with hyperbole, and the quality of tea inevitably decreases.


This is a pretty maocha, but dark for less than one year old. In its favour, this is clearly a leaf of good breeding: it has an effervescent energy on the tongue, a mouth-watering huigan, and a decently thick texture.

Unfortunately, that's where the fun ends: the flavour and aroma are simple, being light grass and little more. There is absolutely no aroma in the wenxiangbei.

I pushed this tea, using longer infusion times and large quantities of leaves, in order to coax some interest out of it. It responded by correspondingly increasing its huigan and astringency, but the character remained ethereally light and vapid.


I draw a fourth infusion simply because there is water remaining the kettle. I can agree with very few of the statements presented in the product description for this tea.

Xizihao/Sanhetang need to make fewer gimmicky teas per year, and return to their roots: proper tea. This tea is the nadir of Xizihao so far, to my palate.

03 February, 2008

1993 Nanjian "Phoenix" Tuocha

I don't drink enough tea like this. Delicious leaves today courtesy of TA - copious thanks, for they are delicious indeed.


This comely little chunk has been prized from a tuocha of very well-aged shengpu, originally sold by Houde (though it looks as if it has sold out), which TA notes was quite a pricey purchase. Money well-spent, methinks.

Nanjian factory have used tasty little spring leaves, with not too many breakages, and compressed them using serious force. Such tight compression usually means that they age slowly, but this one has done very well.


It has the best of both worlds: the depth and refined subtlety of maturity, combined with the vigour and energy of youth. If only we could all be so lucky.

The chaiqi, huigan, and texture are excellent. The overall feel is liquid library - molten mahogany. A touch of vanilla, some rich maltiness.

And before you know it... it's all gone. What a fleeting pleasure. Top stuff.

02 February, 2008

2007 Yesheng Maocha

I love maocha. It doesn't get a lot of press, perhaps because it's not the greatest tea to store (although the 1960s Gaoligongshan is a good, old maocha).

This tea was bought by TA (many thanks), from his local vendor in the Czech Republic. We know little about it, excepting the "yesheng" [wild] in its title, which makes me think of brutally astringent wild-tree leaves.

And what beautiful leaves they are...


This tea is "yin and yang". Its strong, "yang" element is its sensation: it is wonderfully thick and oily, it has effervescent energy on the tongue, it cools the mouth like mint, and it has a flushing chaqi.

It's "yin" element is its flavour and aroma: it is quiet and mushroom-like.

The strong sensations mark it out as a good quality tea. The gentle flavours are an unusual mix.


This tea responds well to excessive bullying: lots of leaves, very small quantities of water (my 10cl pot has half-filled), and long infusions. Pushing it hard extracts a good huigan and some decent flavour. Anything less than a firm hand and it is a bit too gentle.


I'm always in favour of good maocha, and this is good maocha. It didn't strike me as "yesheng" in its flavours, but it was certainly well-grown, as evinced from its sensations.

Thanks to TA for the sample - it's one of several interesting maocha to come...