06 June, 2009

Temperature vs. Induction

I've recently had an e-mail asking for a "tetsubin reloaded" article to follow my previous tetsubin article - thanks for the letter, Dr. Kim! It's been on my mind, but I've not got around to taking a photograph of my hot-plate. Let me remedy that immediately:



Tetsubin
My hot-plate: it is hot, and it is like unto a plate


Regular readers may remember that Lei and I switched from our previous kettle (the popular Kamjove induction system) to the above set-up. In a previous article on the heating-via-induction process, I mentioned that we made the change because the inductor was (i) noisy, due to its fan; (ii) irritatingly "beepy" due to the electronic noises it makes in response to every pressed button; and (iii) subjectively discomforting due to the presence of a high-frequency induction coil. Maybe you don't find the latter to be a problem.


Slowness

The induction system certainly has its advantages: it is extremely efficient at heating water, and so there's very little waiting for water to boil. However, I usually only sit down to a proper gongfucha session if I am deliberately trying to slow down, and have an hour or two to spare. These days, that means Saturday morning, or Sunday before heading out to chapel, unless I sneakily grab a session before heading into work. So, quick boiling isn't a very high priority for me.

In fact, you know, the gradual process of the tetsubin is actively positive. It slows me down. It slows. Me. Down.

I like being forced to be slow. It empties out all the nonsense from my head, usually filled with half-formed plans and concerns. Papers. Chapters. Projects. Students. Positions. Using the hot-plate pictured above, the tetsubin takes about two or three times as long to boil water as does the inductor. And I like that very much. Doesn't that sound pointless? However, it doesn't work like that. There's something tangible and real about the tetsubin. Its slowness has turned out, unexpectedly, to be a positive boon.

What do I do while waiting for it to boil? Nothing. I do nothing, or at least I try to do nothing. And, as every practioner of zazen will tell you, that's a very hard thing to do. The results I find to be highly beneficial.



Sofa and Book
A typical view from the tea-table


Everyone's Got to Have a System

I've got used to our dear tetsubin in the last four months, such that it is now an unconscious part of my routine. I have learned its sounds to help my understand the temperature of the water, and have reached a good state in making tea intuitively. As always, the process of improvement is a constantly ongoing one.

I'd like to describe some points that I've come to find useful in using my tetsubin. Of course, this is (as always) what "works for me". My eternal advice: think about it for yourself.

(i) I don't like boiling the same water over and over again, and I don't like keeping one large batch of water on the boil for ages. This is my preference; I know some people like to keep it "rolling" using a small tea-light. There's no right answer, but this is my way. To that end, I don't heat up a big batch of water: I heat up enough water for two pot-fulls. This comes to about a third of the tetsubin capacity for my equipment. (Be careful not to boil a tetsubin with too little water, or you will crack it.)

(ii) After filling the pot, this leaves me without enough water remaining in the tetsubin for another pot. I put the tetsubin on our iron trivet (the round, white object to the left of the hot-plate in the above photograph), and remove its lid. The kettle and the water inside begin to cool, and I turn my concentration to the infusion taking place in the pot. While I mess around brewing the tea, the kettle and its water continue to cool on the trivet.

(iii) When it comes to the next infusion, I have a warm tetsubin containing warm water. This water remaining in the tetsubin acts as a temperature buffer, allowing me to add (room-temperature) water for the next infusion. I add the new water slowly, and it mixes with the warm water so as not to cause too large a temperature differential in the iron of the tetsubin. Iron doesn't like significant temperature differentials. (The Japanese tea ceremony takes this to its extreme by cooling a used chanoyu kettle gradually, by pouring warm water over its exterior, until it gradually approaches room temperature.)

(iv) Now, I have 50% new water in the pot, and only 50% from the previous infusion. Over time, it is reasonable to assume that this remaining fraction of water in the pot decreases by half each time, so that the water is never too old, nor kept hot for too long. That works for me.



Red Rose



The Taste

I read an article some time ago on a vendor's web-page that said tetsubins were unsuitable for shengpu. I know several teachums who were actively dissuaded from buying a tetsubin by this article. It's very dangerous for people to write such statements - particularly without providing any explanation, as did this article. Zen Buddhists have a tradition of avoiding definitive statements for this very reason: it is dangerous to say something that could mislead a listener, and it may be better to say nothing at all.

To offer contrary evidence to the article, I have found the water from a tetsubin to be highly complementary to shengpu, both young and old. These are not definitive statements: I urge you to understand that these are my opinions, and at best relate to the water I use (bottled spring water), to the tea that I drink, and to my method of brewing. I have found the results to be pleasant, and I suggest that you come to your own conclusions, if possible, by trying out a tetsubin for yourself, if the opportunity arises.

To my reckoning, the water is smoother than that obtained from our induction system. It is "rounded", gradual, and more mineral, when consumed plain. When used to brew tea, I have found its mineral character to emphasise shining high-notes that I previously did not detect, and to amplify the effect of the huigan [swelling return-sweet character in the throat].

In engineering terms, it amplifies "higher frequencies" in the character, such as the ringing high notes, the aroma, and the huigan, and it attenuates roughness. My plantation teas taste much more palatable with tetsubin water, for example. Bass notes, such as leather, tobacco-like undertones, seem largely unaffected - if not a little more smooth.

There is a difference, and you may not like that difference - so try it, and see for yourself. I like the difference, and I would not recommend the "unsuitable for shengpu" statement for the general audience.


Coda

It is very important to dry your kettle after use. Happily, this is very easy: when the hot-plate is finished after use, just leave the empty tetsubin on it for a half-minute, and the residual heat will evaporate the thin film of water remaining on the interior of the kettle. Don't leave it sitting too long, as heating without water (even on the cooling-down heat of the used hot-plate) will not be beneficial taken to the extreme.

One thing I learned was that it is very easy to leave water in the tetsubin and forget it! I habitually used to neglect my induction kettle in this way, and come back to the tea-table the next day to find that I had left water in it. No problem, the induction kettle was protected from oxidation. The tetsubin, however, is not so well protected, and needs careful attention. Don't run off and leave your kettle with water in it!

04 June, 2009

2003 TeaSmith Yiwu

I don't get into the capital very much, but it's just an hour away. Yesterday, I visited UCL (University College, London), a place to which I haven't been since applying to universities for my undergraduate degree. The grandeur and beauty of the architecture are astounding - we don't get anything on this grand metropolitan scale in Oxford. The main building, pictured below, reminds me of St. Paul's Cathedral in London, or Capitol Hill in the USA.


UCL


After three hours spent talking about engineering with the locals, I found myself in the centre of London with an hour in hand - therefore, time to head to TeaSmith. If there are any other decent tea venues in London, I haven't heard of them!

Nada's qiaomu [tall tree] Yiwu xiaobing had arrived, complete with a pretty wrapper carrying the TeaSmith logo and Nada's stamp. Familiar with that tea, I headed into the 2003 Yiwu that TeaSmith have carried for some time. Wet-stored in Hong Kong, as far as I can tell, but very woody and smooth, the girls behind the bar were kind enough to infuse its leaves throughout the duration of my visit. They also allowed me some tasters of a 2009 Shanlinshi wulong that I understand comes from Tea Masters, which was delicious. It was vivid, packed with energy, and with an aroma that lasted forever - just what I look for in a qingxiang wulong.


White Flowers
Floral notes in the wulong reminded me of home


Happiest of all, there were customers in TeaSmith that seemed to know quite a lot about tea. Usually, as you'd expect given that proper Chinese tea is generally unknown, the clientele don't know too much and need plenty of tuition and explanation from the TeaSmith staff. This time, I listened with joy as an undergraduate with spiky black hair told his friend (a girl with bright pink hair) the finer points of brewing tea. Impressive!

I should be spending my free London time in the galleries, I suppose, but the chance of drinking tea with like-minded souls always seem to win me over, and I find myself heading out to Spitalfields. Thanks again to the staff for another memorable visit.

02 June, 2009

2009 Nadachayuan "Yiwu Mahei"

Summertime. I fear it is with us. No longer may a man dress as he wishes; he dresses as he must. Stow away the long scarves, hide away the hats. Any season where I can't wear a waistcoat for fear of expiring from hyperthermia is a season I dread.

On the bright side, we've been spending more time exploring the garden of our new house, and seeing what the previous owner has been growing in it. While undoubtedly miniature in comparison to the wide expanses of American homesteads, it is our first home of our own, and so it feels very special indeed.


Garden
Believe it or not, the colour of the garden is precisely this green, with no alteration.

Fans of Heidu (your name is Legion, for you are many) will be happy to know that, despite being inflicted with feline diabetes, fleas, and a stench straight from the bowels of Hades, he is back among us. In fact, he just likes to follow us around the garden and hang out wherever we go, which is very sweet. The pleasant smells of flowers and vegetables almost overcome his pungent aroma, too. Almost.



Greenhouse
You're doing it all wrong.


Lei and I were very touched to read e-mails and comments giving us advice on how to combat Heidu's manifold problems. Much as we'd love to solve them ourselves, his real owner (our neighbour-but-one) is a lovely family lady, who loves him very much. We're attempting to mention his fleas as tactfully as we can manage.





Humans - can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em....


Thanks also for the generous e-mails regarding my on-going slog, career-wise. I may have painted too bleak a picture, for the news is good: I am happy to report that I secured a very pleasant five-year position with my current boss (actually, this was entirely due to his continued generosity), and was elected as a Fellow of a college here - an honour I feel largely undeserved given my humble junior status.

Maybe I can get the college to institute the position of a "tea steward", to go alongside that of the traditional wine steward - heaven knows, their tea is bad enough, as it is everywhere here!

Which leads us nicely towards today's tea...







This is my first shengpu session in a long, long time, simply because time and tide have kept me away from my tea-table (see entries passim). To get back in the mood, and to prepare the ol' tastebuds for the onslaught of a whole new year of tea, I thought I'd start with a good one.


I bought this tea from Nada, who selected it during his recent 2009 expedition around Yunnan, and comes from a village named Mahei, in the Yiwu tea-zone. The wrapper alone (pictured above) arrests my attention, as I am extremely fond of traditional Chinese landscapes. Their impact is as much in their use of the white space of the canvas as it is in the detail, and I appreciate the restraint and suggestiveness of classical Chinese artists in this genre. I understand Nada negotiated with the artist himself in order to produce the wrappers, which is A Good Thing in my eyes.

Below, some detail of the climb to the tea-pagoda:






...which reminds me, I must finish convincing Lei that we need a tea pagoda under the willow tree. (You look lovely today, darling.)

The maocha is entirely qiaomu [tall-tree], which took some darned hard work, as far as I can tell: even during the high point of the season, the sellers in Yiwu itself mix their product with plantation leaves to make it go further. This may or may not be made from the same maocha as are the cakes at TeaSmith, which I long to try. Actually, I'm coming to University College in London tomorrow, so I should I do exactly that!

The compression is excellent: firm, but not Xiaguan, and the leaves are sizeable and whole, with a clean and sweet aroma. My impression of the Yiwu qiaomu (actual qiaomu) maocha from 2008 was just that: clean.






The soup is pure, crystalline yellow, with the expected short-but-sweet beidixiang [initial scent] swelling to a long, climactic lengxiang [cool scent] of low sugars that lasts an absolute age. It dwells in the wenxiangbei [aroma cup] for several minutes, solid and potent.







The characteristics are mobile in the mouth: sweetness that moves to the throat and swells in as similarly dramatic manner as did the aroma. "Wow, this is so pure. Is it old-tree?" asks Lei, without knowing which tea it is. The purity and energy are remarkable.

It marches on forever, simply becoming sweeter and sweeter. Middle infusions fill out into a sweet-leathery affair, which recedes to pure, elegant sweetness by the eleventh infusion. Even then, the mouth continues to water after swallowing. There's plenty of content in these leaves.







After twenty (!) infusions, it being a slow and leisurely day, the tea continues to deliver solid sweetness and mouthwatering after-effects. Even then, it continues to swell in the throat, and is entirely devoid of any roughness or abrasiveness. Nada should be very pleased with his production. Due to pressures of time, other cakes bought from him remain in their boxes in my office, and have yet to be transferred home, but I look forward to doing so.

Here's to a great 2009 tea season for all of us.



Addendum
March, 2012

This cake has darkened noticeably.  It has become vegetal and bass-like, while retaining a potent kuwei.  The body remains thick, but it has shifted significantly in the heavier, downward direction - in a good way.  It lasts for a very large number of infusions without sign of difficulty, and has the cooling sensations and brilliance of character that remind of its raw youth, three years ago.

I conclude that the aging conditions are sufficient for looking after this cake's future, and, in particular, that the humidity of the air is not stripping it of its character.