2009 Douji "Youle"

Ages ago, a number of us embarked on buying a batch of 2009 single-mountain cakes via Taobao, through an agent.  I think it was "Taobaonow".  Since then, the same cakes have become available for comparable, or even lower, prices at outlets that have taken to specialising in Douji, such as Dragon Teahouse and China Chadao.

Of that stack of single-mountain cakes, I have been quite impressed.  While not reaching the heights of hand-selected cakes from premium vendors, Douji cakes are reliable and robust, and tend to occupy the upper end of the mainstream.

This cake from Youleshan is one of the few from the stack that I have not yet opened, and think it time to do so.  This has been on my shelves for over two years...

As with all Douji single-mountain cakes, it looks good.  The cake is chubby, the leaves are whole.  All the signs are right, so far.  The scent is quite delightful, being a forthright sweetness that you don't often find in a pu'ercha.

Youleshan is one of the historically "famous" six mountains, but it doesn't turn up regularly in single-mountain cakes, unless masquerading as something else.  I seem to recall a gentle, roasted 2009 version from Yunnan Sourcing and a solid 2003 6FTM version (thanks to Keng).  As a result of this limited exposure, I don't feel as if I fully understand the characteristics of Youleshan tea, and so this Douji cake is welcome.

As with the scent of the dry leaves, the character in the tasting cup (pinmingbei) is intriguing, being fruity - it eventually fades into leafy sweetness, but lasts long.  That fruitiness is a ripe, purple kind that fills the front of the mouth immediately, and makes it instantly appealing.  Meanwhile, an undercurrent of broad "tea" flavours fill out underneath, making itself known in the throat.  It is a good combination of savoury and fruity characteristics.

Douji always strike a good balance between price and quality, and I feel a little closer to understanding the region.  Some more data-points would be most welcome in reducing the bounds of uncertainty.

Ceramic Tink!

ceramic tink!

holding teapot handle

with no teapot

2005 Changtai - Yichanghao "Mangzhi"

Mangzhi is one of the famous, if lesser-accredited, mountains of Mengla county in the south-eastern corner of Xishuangbanna.

Just when I thought that I had tried all of the various Yichanghao cakes (whose solid, enjoyable virtues continually delight me), China Chadao provided me with a sample of a cake hitherto unknown to me.  Thanks again to the proprietor, Jerry, for his generosity.

This sample has long, beautiful leaves, as pictured above, which emphasise the decency of Yichanghao blends.  Given that this is, essentially, a mainstream label, the maocha is very reliable.

Shown above, the soup is light orange, as befits its six years.  Like many Yichanghao cakes, it is well-made: the base is of sticky-sweet molasses, dark and solid, while notes of soft woods drift into the nose after the swallow.  It is, perhaps, a touch light in the body, but it is otherwise aging very nicely.

Maybe it is the mood, perhaps it is the tea - a deeply calming sensation comes over me after a few infusions - something heavy and almost narcotic in nature.

While I am engaged in the pleasures of this tea, my attention is broken by a most welcome interruption, as Xiaohu toddles up to my chair to show me his favourite yellow balloon, a treasure from another infant's party the day before.  "Bloon!  Bloon!"

Brewed hard, the Yichanghao responds with the same soft woodiness of its opening infusions, which suggests that it is somewhat limited in its potency.  It is almost impossible to overbrew this tea, despite my best efforts.

Nonetheless, it is a dark and enjoyable tea, and does nothing to shake my confidence in the earthly delights of Changtai's best brand.  Thanks again to China Chadao for the opportunity to try it.

2005 Douji "Yisheng" Spring

Regular readers may remember the frantic Internetly amusement (and corresponding nuclear fall-out) caused by the 2005 Douji / Yisheng cakes, which come in red / purple colours and, seemingly, spring / autumn variants.  I loved the 2005 Douji "Purple", and later compared the 2005 Douji "Red Autumn" with the 2005 Yisheng "Red", deciding that both were lovely, but that the latter was outstanding.  My original thoughts on the Yisheng may be found here, which remain unchanged after much subsequent tasting.

Being a good sort, Scott of Yunnan Sourcing made some of the 2005 Douji "Red Spring" available, also known as the "Hongyisheng" (red "Yisheng", referring to the characters in the centre of the wrapper, and not to be confused with the 2005 Yisheng cake, which was mentioned above).  These went for a relatively decent $62 - Scott's prices remain very fair.

The distinguishing factor here is that the cake is a 400g chubster, as marked on the wrapper, whereas the autumnal version is the usual 357g (and which is not marked on the wrapper).  I have a cake of the autumnal version from Taobaowang, which was the source of the comparative article, and so look forward to comparing this spring version to it.  We would assume, a priori, that this spring cake is probably more gutsy, which is A good Thing.

The good-sized leaves, pictured above, have a slight rustiness about their colour, which gives me hope for some decently-aged material.  The proof of the pudding, they say, is in the tasting...

I like pudding, and I like this tea.  The aroma is a punchy, heavy tobacco, which is just charming.  Despite the heaviness, it remains bright and cheerful, with a good potency.  It unfolds into a robust maltiness that is distinct from that sometimes associated with hongcha-style processing / accidents.

Bear in mind, gentle Reader, that Douji cakes usually adhere to a fairly consistent house style, and this cake is no exception.  If you like that dark, dense character, then this cake will probably thrill you.  If you are a drinker of tieguanyin, this may not be for you.  Let the chips fall where they may.

Sandpaper Reveals

sandpaper reveals

layers of old hard paint

and old soft wood