19 May, 2010

1995 Menghai

Today is a rather special day, as far as tea goes. As is my habit, I woke just after dawn, performed my usual morning tasks, then sat down at the tea table, to enjoy a session in the few hours before heading out to work.


Flowers


This 1995 Menghai cake is, of course, produced in the CNNP wrapper.  Remember when CNNP used to mean good tea?  Like many Mainland brands, the quality of CNNP productions before and after the economic opening of China in the late 90s is like night and day.  These days, I firmly maintain, CNNP is where pu'er goes to die.  

This 1995 cake is from that halcyon era when CNNP wrappers were synonymous with decent quality, being the state-owned label in which tea companies were obliged to market their productions.


1995 CNNP



Unlike the chopped maocha used in many older productions, the leaves of this cake are large and mostly whole.  They have darkened properly, of their own volition, into a solid darkness, with huangpian [yellow flakes] turning a rusty orange. 

And what a treat this is.  We find smooth, thick, heavy soup with a long-lasting aroma that would put to shame most modern pu'er.  Unlike some "recipe" pu'er, this non-standard example endures for a great many infusions at constant potency.  I am often concerned by the lack of endurance of some older pu'er - all old cakes are not alike.  Just because it is old, doesn't mean it will endure.  This cake, however, is a fine example of how to get it right.

A distant hint of shicang [wet storehouse] indicates that, unsurprisingly, this cake has experienced some wet storage in its past.  It has dried out nicely over its obviously more dry-stored recent history, and remains sweet and potent in the throat.

This is a great tea, without exaggeration.


1995 CNNP


But the obvious quality of the cake is not the reason that this tea is so special.  

Its place of honour comes from the fact that this was, in fact, an unfathomably generous gift from Keng, a reader and teachum in Singapore.  

Words of thanks would not adequately convey the enjoyment that we had from this tea, nor our gratitude, and so I shall instead raise a silent cup to our kindly benefactor.

8 comments:

Giri Mandi said...

And a silent cup to you, for all the beauty you share!

Sir William of the Leaf said...

The Menghai cake I have is just one year younger than yours.
I am not well versed in the ways of pu'erh, but from my limited knowledge, I would say that the 1996 production is pretty decent as well! I enjoyed this post very much!

Asiatic Fox said...

Don't you just love it when people give you tea? It's so awesome. =D

Would very much like to try this one. Which kind of pu'erh is this? A vegetal one or a smoky one? You didn't say.

Anonymous said...

Hi there. How are you my friend? The tea looks good. :)
I think it is time for me to get to know Keng. :)

--ST

Hobbes said...

Thank'ee, thank'ee.


Dear Seb,

I think you two should meet for some good tea ;)


Dear Fox,

This was clean, sweet, woody. Some youth remaining, a presence in the throat. Very nice indeed.


Toodlepip,

Hobbes

Sarah said...

Hi Hobbes,
I'm part of a group writing a new blog with the aim of creating proper awareness of the true provenance of teas.
I like your style and content, and was wondering if we could maybe put a link to you on our own site?
What do you think?

Sarah said...

Actually, I've just realised we've already been in touch. Never mind!

Tom said...

Hobbes,

Do you recognize the factory or hand behind this cake?

http://www.puerhshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_28&products_id=649

The description lists Mengku...but I'm having trouble matching a hao.