18 February, 2013

2009 Nanmuchun "Wuliangshan"

I fondly remember buying random cakes from Yunnan Sourcing, the inventory so large (and generally so good) that finding fun tea at a low price was quite easy.  It is something that I haven't had the time to do for some years now, and the discovery of a random sample generously provided by Scott was the perfect opportunity to revisit my old habit.


2009 Nanmuchun Wuliang


Just as in those experiments of earlier years, I have absolutely no idea what "Nanmuchun" cakes are like.  This is all part of the fun.  You never know which brand could turn out to be a new classic.  The world of pu'ercha is surprisingly meritocratic, with the possibility of good cakes unrestricted to particular years, locations, or labels.  Everyone, and every cake, has a shot at goal.


2009 Nanmuchun Wuliang


Pictured above is the little bag that provided me with the excitement to drink it immediately; an undiscovered sample bag from Scott.

Shown below, the leaves of this cake may be seen to be quite small; I have a recollection that Wuliangshan leaves are habitually this way.  Randomly reading my article on the excellent 2011 Wuliangshan cake (which I entonginated), I am reminded of the potential for this area.  Certainly, it is one that I rather enjoy.


2009 Nanmuchun Wuliang


Tea from this remote, unpopular region is generally quite affordable, and this is great for pu'ercha drinkers who are willing to step off the beaten track.  The scent of this cake's leaves is immediately enticing, with a potent sweetness.


2009 Nanmuchun Wuliang


Happily, it brews an honest yellow, which turns orange in the air.  It has the buttery scent in the wenxiangbei [aroma cup] of fresh tea, although it has no lengxiang [cooling scent].  This sometimes suggests a lack of finishing characteristics, in the throat, and therefore a lack of huigan (to my mind).

It has a decent kuwei, but there is not too much complexity in the throat, as the scent suggested.  This is compensated by a good vibrancy on the tongue and some cooling notes on the breath.  Ultimately, the body is somewhat thin and watery, and I have trouble getting it to be truly interesting without pushing the bitterness through the ceiling.


2009 Nanmuchun Wuliang


That said, the cake is very cheap (something like $25), and it is certainly pleasant to drink.  I subsequently took the remainder of the generous sample to my lab for future drinking and, each time that I unthinkingly brewed an infusion or two of it while concentrating elsewhere, I was immediately brought back to the cup by its sweetness and pleasant buttery tone.  It is a good, lo-fi cake, but I suspect may not hold up to the rigours of the years, due to its thin body.  Even in four years, however, it has picked up some notes of adolescence.  A disposable and enjoyable little pu'ercha... but the 2011 Wuliangshan made by Scott was only $20, and there really is no comparison.

6 comments:

TwoDog said...

I have been drinking a lot of Wuliang and Ailao mountain area teas recently, poking around for a tea from that region with more robust body, but it seems that is not in the cards. (with a few exceptions) However, I still enjoy a lot of the traits you listed, especially some in the 3-5 year range that have enough age to calm their less attractive qualities, but not enough age to mute their fragrances and character - this sounds like one of those

Hobbes said...

Have you tried Scott's Wuliang cakes from 2011? First-class stuff, for $20. Definitely worth a look!


Toodlepip,

Hobbes

TwoDog said...

I've only had the 2012. The few sessions I had with it were very enjoyable though. Especially when I went for some lighter 5g 120 ml gaiwan brews. Very good bargain tea

Hobbes said...

Absolutely. I know you, like me, appreciate a good pu'er bargain. ;)

If I may say so, you seem to have rather a talent for it...


Toodlepip,

Hobbes

Ian Nelson said...

I also sampled this cake recently. I have to say I really enjoyed it, and at $25 a cake I think it's a real steal. In each of the three sessions I've had with it, I've found the first couple steeps (after two rinses) to be pretty unenjoyable but then around the third or forth steep the tea really jumps out at me with a piney perfuminess and a really nice kuwei and a cooling effect, both of which tend to stick around through at least the tenth steep. I'm sad I missed out on the delicious-sounding 2011 Wuliang from YSLLC, but I'm diggin' this Nanmuchun tea. And considering how cheap these teas are, I'm definitely going to have to keep an eye on what's available from Wuliangshan from now on.

Hobbes said...

Dear Ian,

Reading your notes reminds me of this sweet little tea. The nice thing about Scott's catalogue is that if you enjoyed something one year, you can be reasonably confident that there will be something at least similar next year - he has a healthy habit of retaining long-term links with his sources.


Toodlepip,

Hobbes