03 August, 2012

2003 6FTM "Gelanghe"

6FTM, how mighty were your Six Famous Tea Mountains, once upon a time. Something changed in the company in the mid-2000s, perhaps coinciding with the pu'ercha investment bubble, from which the company has never recovered.

With thanks to Keng, it is time to enjoy some of their "vintage" output.  This cake is either $45 or $451, depending on how I read Keng's handwriting.  I suspect its the former.


2003 6FTM Gelanghe


This is a cake from Gelanghe, which is in the Menghai region.  6FTM are nothing if not traditional, which is perhaps a constraint imposed upon themselves by their name.  This is not a bad thing when the tea is good.


2003 6FTM Gelanghe


Pictured above and below, the leaves are really very appealing: they are whole, quite small, but varied in grade.  The tips have turned a rusty copper colour with age.  While it has not spent its whole life in Singapore, there is certainly more than a hint of the city-state's excellent storage conditions in its sweet aroma.


2003 6FTM Gelanghe


It is an excellent tea, being dense, sweet, with some clean sharpness remaining - the storage seems much less humid than some Singaporean examples.  It has a robust, low body of clean shengpu flavour; I wrote "surprisingly clean" in my diary.

I don't think that I could identify the individual characteristics of Gelanghe that distinguish it from other Menghai regions, but this cake is solid, apparently inexpensive, and longlasting.  6FTM had such a good record of making productions that far exceeded their low asking price - perhaps I should try reacquainting myself with their more moden cakes to see if it has been regained.  I gave up on their new cakes a few years ago, and everyone deserves a second chance...


2003 6FTM Gelanghe


While I don't usually mix computing and tea, the arrival of the iPad has made checking out small details about a particular tea a lot easier.  I sincerely recommend them for all manner of tasks, and would happily bore you sideways about how I can use it to access Windows running on a virtual machine in my university laboratory, which I then VNC into from my home (or college, or conference in China) through an SSH tunnel, after VPN connecting to the university network...



Addendum
September, 2013

You don't often hear about Gelanghe cakes, and I suspect that this is one of just a handful in our collection.




In the few years that we have had this cake, it has noticeably darkened.  I didn't notice just how small the leaves are when I tried this one previously - as pictured below, the blend is very "old-fashioned", in the sense that the "grade" is of quite small leaves.




Of all our 2003 6FTM cakes, this is probably the best: it has a cooling sensation in the mouth, a strong central sweetness, and lasts well into the throat.  While still a humble 6FTM cake, it has qualities that are properly enjoyable.  The maltiness is clean and long, thanks to its apparently careful aging, and, critically, it retains strength sufficient for it to keep going.  This is not a cake that is likely to "fade away", as demonstrated by its state after its first decade.




One actually has to be a little careful, because it is entirely possible to get careless and overbrew the leaves.  The wooden, pure sweetness is rewarding, and there is something of a vibrant energy about the soup that leaves me feeling brightened and refreshed.  Its texture is decent, with something to "chew on".  I look forward to seeing how it progresses...

01 August, 2012

Turbulence

Xiaohu Plantpot


turbulence
the sky filled with
little boy's cries

30 July, 2012

2011 Puerh.sk "Bada"

Peter at Puerh.sk has made some excellent cakes, most notably the Guafengzhai and Mannuo of those I've tried from 2009-2011.  This collection has something of a cult following among the (very large number of) drinkers based around Eastern Central Europe, and I can see why.  They're not hard cakes to enjoy, they promise good things for the future, and they are priced nicely.  It's a fine balancing act that Peter manages very well.


2011 Puerh.sk Bada


Badashan is in northern the Menghai region, and is a cake that is a little off the beaten track in terms of "single mountain" attributions, although I'm sure that it finds its way into many blends unattributed.  The small leaves, pictured below, have an encouragingly heavy, content-filled scent, laden with sugars.


2011 Puerh.sk Bada


Xiaohu sits on my lap, scribbling with a pencil on the back of one his mother's academic publications on the estimation of lung function.  He disregards the yellow soup (shown below), and seems content to draw on his mother's work, while his father enjoys a deliciously clean cup of Badashan tea.  

It has the disconcertingly familiar aroma of grass and hay that I associate with leaves from that region.  As I've mentioned before, there was a period (some time ago now) in which all of my tea was in storage, and I drank only casually while in the office.  I had the same cake every day: a Menghai Tea Company "special" cake from Badashan, which left me intimitely familiar with the region, like it or not.  (It was a fairly basic cake, but got the job done.)  Thankfully, this cake is much better than the mainstream Menghai version.

It has an excellent silky texture, combined with a very wide-ranging body that is stuffed full of interesting compounds.


2011 Puerh.sk Bada


I pile in more leaves, and the result is a powerful, heavy, energetic tea with tons of honest kuwei [good bitterness in the throat].  I like this cake very much, and am impressed by the price of 33 euro per 250g xiaobing.  That comes out at approximately £40 per 357g, which I consider to be a fair price for such a good cake.  There are cakes that are triple this cost which would do well to learn from its endurance, cleanliness, and degree of content.  Peter should be rightly proud of a very solid cake.

I hope that he makes more cakes in 2012; I'll be hovering around the web-site like a moth attracted to a bright light.